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Abbey Dore

Abbey Dore
Herefordshire

 Dore Abbey

Cwm, Grey Valley, Abbey Dore in the early 20th century. Photograph by Alfred Watkins courtesy of Hereford Library

Abbey Dore is a village and parish in the lower Golden Valley in Herefordshire. It takes its name from the Cistercian Abbey on the Dore - Dore Abbey - founded in the 12th century.

The lower Dore forms the extreme eastern edge of what was in the early medieval period the British (we would now say Welsh) commote of Ewyas.  The northern boundary of the commote was marked by Cusop Hill and its south-eastern one by the River Monnow.  To the south-west the Grwyne Fawr valley formed its boundary and the lower reaches of the River Dore seem to have marked its easternmost extent.  The name Ewyas, a purely Welsh name, may mean sheep district.

When we first hear of Ewyas it is a commote of the kingdom of Glywysing/Gwent, although there are hints of an earlier time when it may have been a separate small kingdom – perhaps with the eponymous Clodock as king.  To the east was the area known as Ergyng which had its own dynasty of kings in the 6th and 7th centuries. Gwrgan is the last person recorded as King of Ergyng, and probably died in about 645.  Gwrgan’s daughter, Onbraust, married Meurig of Glywysing/Gwent, and their son Athrwys became king of the whole territory.

From the Welsh point of view, northern Ergyng drops out of sight in the mid 9th century.  Writing in the 12th century the author of the 'Life' of St Oudoceus (Euddogwy) says that the area was lost to the English 'from Moccas to the Dore to the Worm to the Tarader'.  It was this that brought the English Mercians to the border of Ewyas and therefore to the Dore opposite where the abbey would be built.

In 1039 King Gruffydd ap Llewellyn killed Iago ap Idwal and gained possession of Gwynedd and Powys.  In that year he defeated Leofric, earl of Mercia at Rhyd-y-groes, near Welshpool.  It may have been in response to the growing power of Gruffydd that, with domination of Ergyng, or Ircingafeld (Archenfield) in English, complete, moves were made to expand the English territory.  In about 1046 Osbern Pentecost, a Norman follower of Edward the Confessor, built a castle within Ewyas, at the place now known as Ewyas Harold.  This castle, together with one at Richards Castle, appears to be the first built in Britain.  The Ewyas castle was a portent.  Short-lived as the first castle proved to be, it was nonetheless the castle of a Norman lord on Welsh territory, and as such deserves its place in history.

The Norman Conquest of England radically changed the balance of power on the border.  William fitz Osbern become Earl of Hereford, and was granted wide powers.  He built castles at Chepstow, Monmouth, Clifford and Wigmore and the castles at Hereford and Ewyas Harold were rebuilt.  In 1073 the Normans ravaged Ceredigion and Dyfed, moving into areas that the English had never penetrated.  By 1086, the ancient Welsh kingdom of Gwent, with its origins in Roman Britain and the civitates of the Silures at Caerwent, had ceased to exist.

Domesday records that Alfred of Marlborough held the castle of Ewyas of the king.  This was presumably the re-built Pentecost Castle.

The name Abbey Dore, although having an obvious derivation, only came into use some time between 1727 and 1831.  When the abbey was built, it was at a place called Blancharbesal.  In the 6th century the British name may have been Lann Cerniu – ‘the church of the Cornishman’.  The Cornishman being Digain, the son of King Constantine Gorneu of Dumnonia. 

Abbey Dore was founded in 1147 by Robert of Ewyas.  It was a house of Cistercian monks.  Cistercians followed the rule of St Benedict and saw themselves as a return to the purity of the original form of the rule.  Their habit was white – they wove their own cloth from sheep raised on their own pastures.  The monastery was that of St Mary of Dore; all Cistercian monasteries were dedicated to Our Lady.

The civil partition of the old Welsh commote of Ewyas was effected in 1536 by what is often erroneously referred to as the Act of Union.   Eastern Ewyas Became part of England.  The border between Welsh and English diocese had already been drawn to the east with Bacton in the diocese of Hereford and Ewyas Harold in St David’s.  That part of the parish of Abbey Dore west of the river is believed to have originally been in Bacton.

Re-drawing the border did not stop people believing that places like Ewyas, Dulas and Llanveynoe and Llancillo were still Welsh.  In 1540 John Leland described Dore Abbey as being ‘in the diocese, but not in the shire of Hereford.’  In Walterstone some church services were still being conducted in Welsh in 1830.  Generally it seems likely that English was the dominant language by this time - the ap Roberts had become Proberts and the ap Rhyses, Preeces.

In 1852 the last Welsh administrative vestige was removed when the Parishes of Clodock with Longtown, Michaelchurch Escley, Craswell, St Margarets, Ewyas Harold, Rowlestone, Llancillo, Walterstone, Dulas and Llanveynoe were transferred from the diocese of St Davids to that of Hereford.  To the west of Hatterall Ridge, the other old parishes of Ewyas – Llanthony, Cwmyoy and Oldcastle - were transferred from St David's to the diocese of Llandaff.  Another anomaly was removed at this time, the parish of Fwddag in Cwmyoy was not only transferred from St Davids to Llandaff but also from Herefordshire to Monmouthshire, and thereby from England to Wales.  In 1921 the Welsh parishes became part of the new Bishopric of Monmouth.

Lime kilns at Abbey Dore being demolished in the early 20th century. Photograph by Alfred Watkins courtesy of Hereford Library

 

Archaeological records from Abbey Dore are held by Historic Herefordshire On Line 

See http://www.genuki.org.uk/big/eng/HEF/Abbeydore/index.html

Illustrations courtesy of Hereford City Library



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